At my local market in Barcelona, I see how few young people have the time or inclination to join the queues for a friendly chatby Food & Wine magazine last month , much to the derision of residents who long ago abandoned the city’s famous 13th-century market to the millions of tourists who visit it each year.
True, there’s still a stall selling barbary duck and foie gras and another dedicated to fresh herbs and wild mushrooms, but otherwise, for chefs and food lovers alike, the market is, in every sense, history. If for some reason you have to go there, once you’ve braved the crowds on La Rambla, you’ll have to put up with being photographed and videoed as you make your purchase, an involuntary recruit, adding a touch of local colour to someone else’s Instagram post.
The market is still an essential part of the social fabric of every Spanish town as well as being the source of quality food in season sold by people whose expertise, be they butchers or fishmongers, you won’t find anywhere else – but for how long? Then there are tastings, tapas tours and other activities, often directed at tourists. Clearly survival trumps sentiment, and increasingly markets are becoming food courts rather than markets, places to eat rather than to buy the raw materials.whose website proclaims it as a monument to Spanish cuisine, monument being the key word here.
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